Day 19, 20 and 21 – May 9, 10 and 11 LOWEST TO HIGHEST, WHAT AN AMAZING TERRITORY

Day 19 – May 9

As we left Fort Nelson I felt blessed we were able to spend 3 nights there. A wonderful place beyond refute. It actually depressed me leaving because I knew it was all downhill from this point on as far as accommodations go. Little did I know we would fall so far so fast.

Backtracking a very short distance brought us to the Liard Trail which would take us about 200 kilometres north to Fort Liard, NT. 

The burnt out forests regenerating ever so slowly continue to disturb me. I love how when it's time to stop and take a photo you just stop and take a photo – none of this pulling over stuff. 

Wildlife sightings were what we were coming to expect. It seems that bison numbers are on the rise again, at least in the north. They are everywhere! You really have to be prepared to stop because they don't care where they amble. On the entire drive only 2 vehicles came up behind me and maybe a dozen passed going in the other direction. No matter how you slice it we saw far more bison than vehicles by a factor of about 4 to 1. 

Only saw 2 bears. One ran off into the woods and the other sat up on a hill staring at me as I watched him.

As you cross the border into the NWT you revert back to Mountain Time but nothing could alter the thrill of being here. This is what this trip is all about. A whole new world. You bet. Wait til you see your motel. 

I knew what to expect, I just didn't expect it to really be like that. The motel is owned and operated by the adjoining General Store people. The grocery prices are not that bad but the motel...we paid more for it than we had for the fabulous place in Fort Nelson. Here we have no internet, very spotty cell service, no drinking water and pretty much nothing else that would be classified as an amenity. There is a TV but it's satellite and does not work if it's windy, cold, sunny, raining, dark...

When we checked Karen walked into the room we were assigned (a room with a kitchenette) and came out immediately. She wasn't sure if someone was still there or the room had just not been made up. Bottom line, we get to change rooms. Just ask my kids how often that happened when we travelled with them.

Day 20 – May 10 Happy Mother's Day

I'm not exactly sure what the drinking water truck was doing here but I've seen it several times since we arrived so have reason for concern. Is he making deliveries, filling a reservoir, what? We were warned not to drink the water as it is heavily chlorinated. No worries. As soon as I saw the motel I grabbed several bottles of water. 

The Liard River begins its journey in the Pelly Mountains of southeastern Yukon, flows over a thousand kilometres southeast through northeastern British Columbia then crosses into the Northwest Territories where it drains into the Mackenzie River. Here, behind our humble accommodations, it is actually quite pretty.

There is a truck bypass around this tiny town. The sign states no vehicle under 2500 kilograms can use it. That means no cars on the road. What a great idea because that means that trucks cannot use the main highway through town. Of course the only vehicle we saw on the bypass was a car so there goes that theory. 

The gas station is not even that, it's called a fuel centre because you can fill with other energy sources as well. I love these places. We've used them in SK and Tuktoyaktuk, NT so are not strangers to their operation. The biggest surprise was regular gas was $2.02 per litre. I honestly expected it to be closer to $3.00. 

Here comes tomorrow! Perhaps this is a good omen...

Day 21 – May 11

This is the single most reason I wanted to explore the Northwest Territories in more depth. Nahanni National Park is a remote UNESCO World Heritage site in the territory. The area can only be reached by flying in at this time of year. You can paddle and hike in in the summer - both multi-day excursions.

The Fort Liard airport has to be experienced to be believed. We arrived about 10 minutes before our flight. Karen went into the terminal to find the controller lying asleep on a treadmill. No need to disturb her, we know she'll be ready when needed. The entire terminal building, which also serves as the tower, and the parking lot easily fit into one photo.

It was a windy day so that combined with sudden up drafts and down drafts, particularly over the bowl-shaped mountain regions made for some very sudden, very unnerving drops. I was very concerned about getting sick but was fine. Karen was not as lucky but the scenery was stunning - no words can describe it so here it is.

Virginia Falls is the central must-see attraction. This was frozen solid last week so we were fortunate to see it today.

Our pilot Sergei worked out of Fort Simpson but picked us up in Fort Liard where we're staying. He made this a truly once in a lifetime experience!

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Day 18 - May 8 - EVEN THE ROAD TO NOWHERE DOESN'T EXIST

Old Fort Nelson, an historic settlement on the Muskwa River, is allegedly located near present-day Fort Nelson. The original fort was established in 1805 as a fur trading post, and today the area includes the historic Warden's Cabin (which I believe is in the museum now), a mission and a cemetery, showcasing deep roots in local First Nations' history.

It certainly was not through a lack of trying...we spent hours on a wild goose chase looking...and all we saw were a few ducks! 

Two problems; the settlement no longer exists (we stopped in at the airport and no one working there had ever seen it, saying they thought one person lived there) and the road to get there is no longer a road. All navigation systems indicated to turn at the exact same spot and this is what is there.

The "road" starts on one side of the highway...

...and continues in the direction we were supposed to go on the other side of the highway.

   Nevertheless, it was a beautiful drive but we didn't see any wildlife, except for the ducks.

As we always try to do, we made the best of it.

For about two kilometres, as you travel out of Fort Nelson on the airport connector road, there are hydrants about every 100 metres. It looks odd but I'm assuming it has something to do with wildfire control, though I can't imagine a hydrant would have much of an impact on a wildfire. Any other thoughts anyone? I'm pretty sure they are not in preparation for a new subdivision.

We spent the rest of our time at the Heritage Museum. It was closed but there is so much stuff outside there was no need to go inside. It was like a drive down Route 66 for me - fabulous!

Ever since Karen had her heart attack 7 years ago she has religiously stuck with her exercise regime, even when we're on holidays. Something to be proud of and it's doing her a world of good.

Talking Heads - Road to Nowhere (Official Video)

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Day 17 - May 7 - SLOWER DAYS CAN BE ENJOYABLE AS WELL

Fort Nelson, BC is most well known as a Gateway to the Northern Rockies and a key service hub on the Alaska Highway. It is also known for its rich history in fur trading, the oil and gas industry, forestry and as a scenic entry to the northern wilderness.

The Fort Nelson Demonstration Forest is a 100 hectare, easily accessible forest in the northwest corner of town designed for education and recreation. It features managed trails for hiking and biking in the summer and cross country skiing in the winter. We gave it a whirl today, between seasons, not as easy as it sounds.

The trail started out beautifully...another gorgeous day.

Soon it became a bit muddy and spongy in spots.

It only got worse - a little wet.

Soggy with ice and snow rounded out the battle.

Finally decided to grin and bear it...and try not to fall. Hi Everybody!

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Day 16 - May 6 - UP DOWN AND ALL AROUND, WHAT A DAY

It was a long day; over eight hours and 600 kilometres brought us back through northern BC to Fort Nelson. The perfect day seemed to bring us out of the mountains in Yukon, through the foothills, back to the mountains then finally levelling off at Fort Nelson. If variety is the spice of life today was HOT.

As we crossed the border back into BC there were numerous signs warning of wildlife encounter near and on the road, especially bison. I, being a die hard skeptic, dismissed the thought and immediately saw a herd of bison coming up the hill toward the highway.

Topography aside, there were many things to explore as we made our way east then north again. The Mountain Portage Rapids flow through the Whirlpool Canyon along a river still choked with ice breaking into huge chunks.

The "gravel" road into the Smith River Falls is only about 2 kilometres long but it takes about 20 minutes each way because the road is atrocious with potholes and huge ridges. We would never have made it if we had kept the Mazda. It was a bone rattling, nerve twinging ordeal, especially when we met a camper RV in a large mudhole. Somehow we managed to pass one another with a cordial wave and a kind "Enjoy!" But it was worth whatever it took. At the confluence of the Smith and Liard rivers the 35 metre high, 10 metre wide falls plunges into a deep pool below with a thunderous roar.

The mountains today reminded me of Banff, Alberta. High and snow-capped with the highway clear cut much farther back than we have seen elsewhere in BC, it made us appreciate the meaning of majestic.

Muncho Lake was beautiful. We had planned on staying there but changed that plan to accommodate our travels through the Northwest Territories to come. 

Unquestionably a great day for wildlife, something rare for us until recently. Ironically there was a sign for almost all these...and there they were.

And of course it just wouldn't be right if we didn't see another one of these guys.

Just before we arrived in Fort Nelson we descended to an inspiring vista. Accompanied by a sign claiming "Limited Visibility" I couldn't help but wonder, what do they know that I can't see. Sure didn't seem limited to me.

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Day 15 - May 5 - GPS DOES NOT WORK WITHOUT INTERNET OR CELL SERVICE

The Robert Campbell Highway is a 583 kilometre route connecting Watson Lake to Carmacks, featuring a mix of paved and gravel roads. We decided we wanted to drive the paved portion (about 110 kilometres in one direction) to see as much of the Yukon as possible before we leave tomorrow. We had not been on any of this in our previous two trips to the Yukon.

Many people wonder why I select to travel these roads. Besides being a little bit weird I totally enjoy the isolation. We did not see a single vehicle in either direction in 2 hours on our trip up the highway. It causes some people concern but it never occupies my mind with the "what if" factor. It's peaceful as can be, often even somewhat boring...but I love that.

It doesn't remain looking like northern Ontario for long. The landscape changes to the mountain vistas we have been enjoying over the last ten days.

For many years the Frances River was part of a Hudson's Bay Company route into central Yukon. Because of the dangerous rapids and canyons, the route was abandoned in later years. The bridge stands out in the wilderness environment.

At the 107 kilometre mark we turned off the highway to check out the unpaved, unassumed Nahanni Range Road 10. In short order this sign made us reconsider and return to the paved highway. We had no idea where the Range Road went.

As soon as we turned back onto the highway the GPS changed. It had not been directing us all along but at least showed the road we travelled. Now...

Built in 1942, the Watson Lake airport is the last remaining air terminal building from the Northwest Staging Route still in use in the Yukon. Its distinctive log construction is reflective of the use of local building materials and the speed with which the Watson Lake airbase was constructed.

This is not a busy airport. This is what an airport lounge should look like...maybe a little more comfortable seating.

Having travelled the Dempster Highway in its entirety in 2018 I was disappointed but not surprised at the lack of wildlife today. We did see a fox run across the road like it was on fire and disappear into the forest just as quickly. As we turned back onto the highway from the airport we stopped to observe this fella. Hey buddy, if you head west a little you'll find things much more peaceful.

Tomorrow we return to BC. Not because we want to so soon after leaving but from Watson Lake the road heads down through a fairly lengthy (500 kilometres +) section of BC to get to the Northwest Territories. Hang in there with us!

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Day 14 - May 4 - MAY THE FOURTH BE WITH YOU

First Wye Lake Park is a beautiful 26 hectare park set in downtown Watson Lake. The walking trail goes right around the shore of the lake, That's not as easy and straightforward as it sounds as the boardwalk and the forest trail entails some tangled areas through the woods.

The time of year was against us again as the snow and ice, combined with the soggy ground made it like following Route 66; fragmented and discontinuous at best, we ended up walking through the residential area a lot of the distance. Nevertheless, it was a good hike of close to 8 kilometres and, as you can see, another gorgeous day.

It is a little late for Aurora Borealis viewing even this far north. Because the days are getting longer (it's light until nearly 10PM here) it is VERY unlikely we'll see any signs of them. SO...it happens there is a marvelous place, the Northern Lights Centre about a kilometer from our hotel; a place where science, storytelling and the amazing Northern Lights come together. It's SciDome HD digital theatre is a full-dome projection system offering immersive 360 degree visuals and surround sound.

This might even look like I'm praying and who knows, maybe I was, because it is definitely an ingratiating experience.

The film captured some incredible footage of the phenomenon. Lucky there was only one other couple in the theatre so I didn't feel quite as much of a tool taking photos of the screen.

The Alaska Highway runs right in front of the hotel strip so we walk it everywhere we go. It runs approximately 2,237 kilometres from Dawson Creek, BC to Delta Junction, Alaska. If the truth be known, roughly 80 to 85 percent of the Alaska Highway is located in Canada. Does anyone else have a "serves you right" feeling about that? It runs all the way through Watson Lake, is very picturesque and certainly not very busy this time of year.

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