Day 16 - May 6 - UP DOWN AND ALL AROUND, WHAT A DAY

It was a long day; over eight hours and 600 kilometres brought us back through northern BC to Fort Nelson. The perfect day seemed to bring us out of the mountains in Yukon, through the foothills, back to the mountains then finally levelling off at Fort Nelson. If variety is the spice of life today was HOT.

As we crossed the border back into BC there were numerous signs warning of wildlife encounter near and on the road, especially bison. I, being a die hard skeptic, dismissed the thought and immediately saw a herd of bison coming up the hill toward the highway.

Topography aside, there were many things to explore as we made our way east then north again. The Mountain Portage Rapids flow through the Whirlpool Canyon along a river still choked with ice breaking into huge chunks.

The "gravel" road into the Smith River Falls is only about 2 kilometres long but it takes about 20 minutes each way because the road is atrocious with potholes and huge ridges. We would never have made it if we had kept the Mazda. It was a bone rattling, nerve twinging ordeal, especially when we met a camper RV in a large mudhole. Somehow we managed to pass one another with a cordial wave and a kind "Enjoy!" But it was worth whatever it took. At the confluence of the Smith and Liard rivers the 35 metre high, 10 metre wide falls plunges into a deep pool below with a thunderous roar.

The mountains today reminded me of Banff, Alberta. High and snow-capped with the highway clear cut much farther back than we have seen elsewhere in BC, it made us appreciate the meaning of majestic.

Muncho Lake was beautiful. We had planned on staying there but changed that plan to accommodate our travels through the Northwest Territories to come. 

Unquestionably a great day for wildlife, something rare for us until recently. Ironically there was a sign for almost all these...and there they were.

And of course it just wouldn't be right if we didn't see another one of these guys.

Just before we arrived in Fort Nelson we descended to an inspiring vista. Accompanied by a sign claiming "Limited Visibility" I couldn't help but wonder, what do they know that I can't see. Sure didn't seem limited to me.

😎

Day 15 - May 5 - GPS DOES NOT WORK WITHOUT INTERNET OR CELL SERVICE

The Robert Campbell Highway is a 583 kilometre route connecting Watson Lake to Carmacks, featuring a mix of paved and gravel roads. We decided we wanted to drive the paved portion (about 110 kilometres in one direction) to see as much of the Yukon as possible before we leave tomorrow. We had not been on any of this in our previous two trips to the Yukon.

Many people wonder why I select to travel these roads. Besides being a little bit weird I totally enjoy the isolation. We did not see a single vehicle in either direction in 2 hours on our trip up the highway. It causes some people concern but it never occupies my mind with the "what if" factor. It's peaceful as can be, often even somewhat boring...but I love that.

It doesn't remain looking like northern Ontario for long. The landscape changes to the mountain vistas we have been enjoying over the last ten days.

For many years the Frances River was part of a Hudson's Bay Company route into central Yukon. Because of the dangerous rapids and canyons, the route was abandoned in later years. The bridge stands out in the wilderness environment.

At the 107 kilometre mark we turned off the highway to check out the unpaved, unassumed Nahanni Range Road 10. In short order this sign made us reconsider and return to the paved highway. We had no idea where the Range Road went.

As soon as we turned back onto the highway the GPS changed. It had not been directing us all along but at least showed the road we travelled. Now...

Built in 1942, the Watson Lake airport is the last remaining air terminal building from the Northwest Staging Route still in use in the Yukon. Its distinctive log construction is reflective of the use of local building materials and the speed with which the Watson Lake airbase was constructed.

This is not a busy airport. This is what an airport lounge should look like...maybe a little more comfortable seating.

Having travelled the Dempster Highway in its entirety in 2018 I was disappointed but not surprised at the lack of wildlife today. We did see a fox run across the road like it was on fire and disappear into the forest just as quickly. As we turned back onto the highway from the airport we stopped to observe this fella. Hey buddy, if you head west a little you'll find things much more peaceful.

Tomorrow we return to BC. Not because we want to so soon after leaving but from Watson Lake the road heads down through a fairly lengthy (500 kilometres +) section of BC to get to the Northwest Territories. Hang in there with us!

😎

Day 14 - May 4 - MAY THE FOURTH BE WITH YOU

First Wye Lake Park is a beautiful 26 hectare park set in downtown Watson Lake. The walking trail goes right around the shore of the lake, That's not as easy and straightforward as it sounds as the boardwalk and the forest trail entails some tangled areas through the woods.

The time of year was against us again as the snow and ice, combined with the soggy ground made it like following Route 66; fragmented and discontinuous at best, we ended up walking through the residential area a lot of the distance. Nevertheless, it was a good hike of close to 8 kilometres and, as you can see, another gorgeous day.

It is a little late for Aurora Borealis viewing even this far north. Because the days are getting longer (it's light until nearly 10PM here) it is VERY unlikely we'll see any signs of them. SO...it happens there is a marvelous place, the Northern Lights Centre about a kilometer from our hotel; a place where science, storytelling and the amazing Northern Lights come together. It's SciDome HD digital theatre is a full-dome projection system offering immersive 360 degree visuals and surround sound.

This might even look like I'm praying and who knows, maybe I was, because it is definitely an ingratiating experience.

The film captured some incredible footage of the phenomenon. Lucky there was only one other couple in the theatre so I didn't feel quite as much of a tool taking photos of the screen.

The Alaska Highway runs right in front of the hotel strip so we walk it everywhere we go. It runs approximately 2,237 kilometres from Dawson Creek, BC to Delta Junction, Alaska. If the truth be known, roughly 80 to 85 percent of the Alaska Highway is located in Canada. Does anyone else have a "serves you right" feeling about that? It runs all the way through Watson Lake, is very picturesque and certainly not very busy this time of year.

😎

Day 13 - May 3 - I'M LONG GONE TO THE YUKON

After two days at Dease Lake we saw no signs or heard any mention that an actual lake existed so as we left this morning we drove about 5 kilometres out of town in the direction the chambermaid indicated and, sure enough, there it was. Just couldn't leave without verification.

Once again the lonely, almost empty road undulated slowly through the mountains of northern BC. 

One last magnificent view of the snow-capped mountains greeted us before the landscape widened and the mountains slipped behind us.

Sadly as we approached the northern border there's about 25 kilometres of previously devastated forest in varying degrees of regeneration. Nice to see them coming back but so sad to realize this happens every year in this province (and many others as well).

The Yukon does borders in awesome fashion. We have arrived on three different occasions and the welcome sign embraces you every time. Bravo Yukon!

Their city signs aren't bad either.

The Sign Post Forest in Watson Lake houses signs from the hometowns of travellers from around the world. The tradition began during the Alaska Highway project in 1942 when a lonely U.S. soldier spent time in Watson Lake recovering from an injury. Asked to repair and erect the directional signposts, he added a sign that indicated the direction and mileage to his hometown, Danville, Illinois. Others followed suit and continue to do so today. There are over 100,000 signs there today.

We had to visit because in September 2018 Karen and I made our own sign and erected it. We were determined to find it but with 100,000 to choose from we knew we'd be there awhile. The only thing I remembered was it was near a front-end loader or some type of road grading equipment. Well that won't still be there...or will it? The machinery is all vintage equipment from the building of the Alaska Highway so it proudly remains. I also had brought with me (on my phone) the photo I had taken when we placed the sign. Lucky no one was there with us because Karen was off on her own search when I started shouting at the top of my lungs. Wow! What are the chances?!

We have developed a nasty habit of running our gas tank to near empty so desperately needed a fill. It wasn't as bad as in Dease Lake (where we thankfully did not get gas) but was still a new high for us. I don't believe I have ever spent this much to fill any vehicle.

We're only here for a very short time so must enjoy what we can.

😎

Long Gone To The Yukon

Day 12 - May 2 - MAKING A LITTLE SOMETHING OUT OF WHAT WE THOUGHT WAS NOTHING

Dease Lake is the last major centre (though it's impossible to imagine this tiny community as a major anything) before the Alaska Highway when driving northbound in British Columbia. The name of the lodge in which we are staying comes from its location on the Continental Divide where water drainage is divided between the Pacific Ocean and the Arctic Ocean.

The rooms have a rustic charm and are quite comfortable with free wi-fi and ROKU TV.

The hallways in the lodge are like an art gallery, the log building featuring beautiful handmade craftsmanship bringing boutique style with a log cabin flare. I must say though, I have mixed emotions about the murdered stuffed wildlife heads mounted on the walls.

It seemed, by any internet research I did, there was nothing to do in Dease Lake. There's lots a fair distance away but nothing right here. Fate stepped in when we ran into the chambermaid this morning. She was a charming young lady from Germany who was familiar with the area so pointed us to the Allan Lake Recreational Area about a kilometre from the lodge. Perfect. We didn't want to drive anywhere today.

Allan Lake is a popular spot for camping and fishing, neither of which particularly appeal to me. Located on the Bonaparte Plateau, the higher elevation apparently provides a nice place to escape the summer heat. I'll have to take their word for that. It was a nice spot for a hike.

The lake loop trail is just under 5 kilometres. We only managed to do about half of it because the trail was very soggy in spots and/or was blocked or extremely hazardous due to snow and ice. We did about 4 kilometres out and back where the trail was manageable. These impediments actually added to the visual appeal quite substantially.

Dease Lake Super A Foods is a snap shot of the community. The vehicles pretty much say it all. One of these is probably not a local.

This place is the winner for scary gas prices. 260.9 for regular is the highest we've seen on this trip...so far! I expect that's not the upper limit. I am biting my tongue refusing to comment on the reason for this atrocity. 

There's nothing we can do about it so it will not dampen our spirits or enthusiasm. We're loving this adventure!

😎

Day 11 - May 1 - LAST STOP IN BC

Today and tomorrow are our last days in British Columbia so it's only fitting today started nicely and turned into a lovely day. We left late because Dease Lake is not too far from here.

The mountain scenery leaving Bell II was awe-inspiring as it always is but the snow adds another dimension to it all.

Quite a wide variance with the lakes as we changed altitudes several times. Though the waters changed the temperature remained fairly constant around 9 degrees.

There is just something so captivating about BC's mountains. It's impossible not to enjoy your day.

As we arrived in Dease Lake the vista opened up and the mountains ultimately seemed to fade from our earlier drive. The perfect sky made everything look perfect.

There's not much around here so we'll have to wait and see what tomorrow brings - or doesn't bring.

😎